

You
normally trade your car before it’s paid off.
Are
stable
in your job and home and are not
planning on changing your normal commute and annual mileage.
Realize
that cars are among the worst
“investments” you can make.
Have good
credit.
Are
concerned about the future resale value of
the vehicle you’re getting, i.e. “a large SUV in the face of rising gas
prices”.Leasing is best related to renting an apartment; you are paying a monthly usage fee that covers the depreciation of the car over a period of time e.g. 3 years. During the term of the lease you are expected to perform any required maintenance, any damage due to accidents is to be repaired professionally and to use the car “normally”. Excessive wear and tear will be billed to you at turn in; just like an apartment you can’t tear out the walls and throw wild parties every night without being penalized.
Lower you monthly payment. Because you are only paying the
depreciation of the car and not trying to pay it completely off your
payments are generally lower on a lease vs. purchase. Never enter
into a lease solely based on the payment; or any other financing for
that matter it’s a sure way to get taken. The sale prices on
leases are negotiable just like purchases so don’t be a “payment buyer”
or they’ll get you.
Lease terms you need to know. The residual value is the
amount
you can buy the car for at the end of the lease term; it is a
percentage of the car’s MSRP and is part of what determines the
payment. You should always calculate your own lease before
signing and the residual is one of the figures you will need to do
this. Gross capitalized cost is the loan grand total before any
down payment and the net or adjusted capitalized cost is your loan
amount after any down payment or trade equity. The money factor
is used to calculate the rent charge and is usually a decimal such as
.00312; a simple way to roughly derive an interest rate from the money
factor is to multiply it by 2400 i.e. (.00312 x 2400 = 7.49).
Leases are not calculated the same as a retail loan so be sure to use a
“lease calculator” to be sure nothing extra is finding its way into
your deal.
“But I drive a lot of miles”. Leases vary from lender to
lender
but most will offer annual mileage limits from 7500 up to 30,000…yes
30,000 miles per year!! Most lease companies limit the total
mileage to 100,000 over the course of a lease so the term has to be
short enough that you won’t exceed that. Often times, especially
when looking at highline cars, the residual value on a high mileage
lease is much better than what you could hope to sell the same car for
if you owned it. The bottom line here is to do your own
comparison; luxury cars will depreciate a lot when talking about “high
miles” and a lease can limit your loss.
Never, ever lease from a bank. Personally I will only do a
“factory sponsored” lease and here’s why. The factory has a
vested interest in your satisfaction with the lease program, if you get
smacked at the end with a bunch of bogus charges, wear and tear fees
etc., you will be less likely to get another one; banks on the other
hand have nothing to lose and tend to be much more strict in accessing
damages at lease termination. The rates for “factory” leases are
often enhanced to help lower payments and when it comes to interest,
less is better.
Make your lease term match your warranty. As a rule, you
never
want to lease beyond a cars’ factory warranty; you want the car during
the “best part of its life”. Think about it, the only additional
expenses you’ll have are your maintenance costs. If you need a
longer term to keep the payment affordable, then you’re probably
looking at too much car!!